|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The following Japanese famous hobby stores are written in English and can
ship to oversea! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FUJIMI 1/24 scale Enthusiast model Series |
How to build Lamborghini Countach LP400 |
|
STEP 1: Reinforcement of hinges & Engine
This model has some dents, parting lines and distortions by molding. I
modified them. Furthermore, this model is fragile because this plastic
resin is very soft. Therefore, if the action parts like door or light are
opened and closed repeatedly, those will break very easily. And that repair
may be difficult for model beginner. I reinforced those hinges by inserting
the brass lines for the client. The durability of this model was improved
substantially by this work.
Body
There is parting line on the yellow line of the image on the left. The
dents and distortions are conspicuous in rear part. I modified them by
using putty and sand paper.
Engine-Hood
These part have some dents. I modified it carefully. The mesh is attached
on the side part of engine-hood of areal car. I cut the part, to reproduce
it. Furthermore, the hinge of this part is most fragile. I reinforced this
hinge by inserting some brass lines inside it and added plastic board.
|
(1). I dispersed the load by increasing the thickness of hinge periphery
with 0.8 mm plastic boards.
(2). The shaft was changed to brass tube.
(3). Reinforcement by 0.3 mm brass line inserting. |
horizontally hinged doors
The parts which constitute horizontally hinged doors don't combine precisely,
because they are inaccurate. And the unnecessary press line is molded to
the basement of window frame. I modified them with polyester putty. Furthermore,
I reinforced door hinges with 0.5 mm and 0.3 mm brass lines.
|
|
|
(1). The big gaps were modified with polyester putty. |
|
(2). The door hinges that were reinforced by inserting brass lines. |
Other parts
The form of air-intake bulge parts is distorted for the contraction of
plastic resin and corner is blunt. I modified them with putty and plastic
board.
The durability of bearing parts of front suspension is quite low. If the
tires are moved, it will have broken easily. I reinforced there with 0.3
mm brass lines.
|
|
|
Air-intake bulge parts that was modified surface |
|
(1). Reinforcement by 0.3 mm brass line inserting. |
Modeling of Engine
I set up each parts of engine and modified those gaps with putty. Next,
I added some pipes and throttle linkage & shaft of periphery of carburetor
that were omitted with brass lines and tubes.
|
|
|
(1) 0.2mm brass line, (2) 0.3mm brass line, (3) 0.4mm brass tube, (4) Masking
Tape (5) 0.6mm brass tube, (6) 0.8mm brass line, (7) 0.3mm plastic board, |
Addition of big pipes and wiring
I added big cooling pipes and hoses that are connected to radiator through
the center of V-bank, after I painted engine. Those were made with brass
lines and vinyl tubes for electric repair. Next, I added spark plug cords
from "MODELLERS" to the engine.
|
|
|
(1) The cooling pipe that was made with 0.8 mm brass line and vinyl tube.
Hose joint bands are stainless steel line. This pipe is connected from
the midway of (2).
(2) The cooling pipe that was made with 0.5 mm brass line and vinyl tube.
This terminal is connected to radiator pipe. |
Making of throttle linkage stay
I made the stay that is linking between throttle linkage and throttle cable,
because it was omitted in this kit. The linkage rods are 0.2 mm brass lines.
It became a furthermore real engine by this work.
|
|
|
Brass tube was added on (1) in after this time of right photo, because
throttle cable is scheduled to go through (2). |
Finished of engine
I painted shadow and high light, next I attached exhaust pipes. It finished
to a fascinating engine.
|
|